Turned shoe and method of making the same



E. M. PATTON.

TURNED SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME. APPLPCATION FILED OCT. 14. 1920;

1,386, 357. Patented g 2, 1921.

IN VEN TOR.

A TTORNE Y.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

TURNED SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING TEE SAME.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Aug. 2, 1921.

Application filed October 14, 1920. Serial No. 416,919.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ELLEN M. PATTON, a citizen of the United States, residing at Cincinnati, in the county of Hamilton and State of Ohio, have invented new and useful Improvements in Turned Shoes and Methods of Making the Same, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to turned shoes, and

to a method of making the same, the term .shoe being employed herein in its generic sense to comprehend footwear generally, such as slippers, street shoes, boots and other similar articles of footwear, having soft, medium or comparatively stiff soles, for adult or juvenile use.

One object of the invention is to provide a turned shoe which can be easily, simply, and economically manufactured with a minimum amount of time and labor, and with a substantial reduction in the amount of hand labor commonly required in the manufacture of shoes of this character.

Another object of the invention is to provide a shoe which is strong and durable in construction, easy fitting and comfortable in use, neat and shapely in appearance, and wherein the outer or main sole, inner sole or filler and the vamp or upper are firmly united in such manner as to prevent distortion from proper shape of the parts of the shoe in the process of manufacture and to insure permanent maintenance of the designed shape of the shoe when in use.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a shoe having a more substantial connection between the margins of the soles and upper than has heretofore been possible in shoes of this type, such connection serving to maintain the shape of the shoe, to enable a much neater and more finished form of bead or shed to be produced, and to entirely obviate the formation of any inside scams or surfaces inside the shoe liable to chafe or otherwise cause discomfort to the foot of the wearer.

The invention consists of the. features of construction, combination and arrangement of parts, and novel steps of method of manufacture, hereinafter fully described and claimed, reference being had to the accompanying drawing, in which:-

Figure 1 is a perspective view of one form of shoe made in accordance with my inven tion.

Fig. 2 is a similar view of the vamp and nnersole as' they appear secured together 1ns1de.out by a single line of stitches and before they are turned, and also showing the filler or sole prior to application and whlch is to besecured to said vam and inne; sole when they are turned rlght side on Fig. 3 is a transverse section through the vamp and sole after being secured together and turned right side out.

Fig. i is a similar view through the completed shoe.

Fig. 5 is a detail section through the seams at one side of the shoe.

Referring now more particularly to the drawing, 1 designates the outer sole, 2 the vamp or upper, and 3 the filler or inner sole, of a shoe constructed in accordance with my invention. While the drawing shows the invention exemplified as applied to a babys shoe, it will of course be understood, as heretofore stated, that the principle of construction and mode of manufacture may be embodied in any of the varieties of shoes commonly'made for adult or juvenile use. Also the shoe may be made of any of the materials ordinarily employed in the manufacture of shoes.

In the operation of making the shoe, the outer sole 1 and vamp 2 are brought into properly superposed relation with their marginal edges in alinement, and the margins of said portions are then secured to ether by a row of stitches 4, as shown in Pig. 2. These stitches 4 are arranged quite a mate; rial distance from the marginal edges of the outer sole and upper, so as to leave such edges projecting in the form of parallel contacting flanges 5 and 6, which are equidistant in width with each other. This operation is performed while the outer sole and vamp are both inside out, preparatory to being turned right side out.

The parts so united are then turned right side out to bring them to the condition shown in Fig. 3, in which the marginal flanges 5 and 6 are caused to project inwardly in the form of refiexed portions. In this operation, as the marginal flanges 5 and 6 are of equal widths, and the outer sole and vamp are stitched at e ual. distances from their marginal edges, a rm foundation for the stitches; is provided and no strainin or bursting of the stitches or-distortion o the outer sole or vamp occurs in the turning process, enabling the vamp and outer sole to be turned without being distorted out of proper shape, and thus eliminating the subsequent hand-shaping operations commonly required to secure shape in prior constructions of this general character. Furthermore, the firm foundation for the stitches thus aflorded prevents straining of the stitches and distortion of the vamp and outer sole when the inner sole is inserted and fitted in position, so that the production of a shoe of perfect shape is insured without the trouble and expense of resorting to additional shaping operations or of discarding imperfectly shaped shoes. The folds surrounding these reflexed portions may then be subjected to a beating or hammering action or to pressure, for flattening out the folds and making the overlapping portions lie closely together, or this operation may be subsequently performed after the apphcation of the inner sole 3.

With the parts in the position shown in Fig. 3, the filler or inner sole 3 is then inserted in such manner that its marginal edge will lie upon and in contact with the reflexed portion or flange 5 and in the fold or bight between the same and the overlying portion of the vamp or upper 2. The folds are then flattened out, if not previously flattened out, and the outer sole, vamp, and filler or inner sole are then united by a second row of stitches 7 arranged parallel with and inside of the row of stitches 4 which secure the reflexed portions, 5 and 6 together. This row of stitches 7 passes through all the folds 1, 2, 3, 5 and 6, this operation being permitted by extending the reflexed portions 5 and 6 inwardly to a suflicien't degree and making them coextensive in width with each other. The effect of the row of stitches 7 is to draw all the folds mentioned tightly together, as shown in Fig. 4, so that said folds lie snugly in contact with each other,

and the arrangement of said stitches 7 also has the effect of forming a bead or shed 8 outside ofsaid stitches, which bead or shed extends entirely around and is coextensive with the mar ins of the outer sole and vamp. A further e ect of thesecond or inner row of stitches 7 is to secure the edges of the inner sole or filler 3 in a close fold lying en's tirely outside the inner surface of the upper and formed between the body thereof and the reflexed portion 5, thus leaving the entire inner surface of the inner sole smooth and entirely devoid of any inside seams 'or rojections liable to chafe or otherwise in- ]ure the foot of the wearer.

When a shoe thus constructed is completed, it will be evident that the two soles will lie in proximity to each other, but will be slightly separated by the thickness of the intervening backing formed by the refiexed.

are made of soft and flexible material.

A material advantage incident to my construction is that as the seam 4 is arranged well inside the margins of the outer sole and vamp, and as the reflexedportions 5 and 6 are therefore comparatively wide and arecoextensive in width with each other, a very strong and substantial connection between the outer sole and vamp is produced. This permits of the proper insertion and securing of the inner sole or filler 3 in position, even when said inner sole or filler is made of stiff or comparativelystifl' vmaterial, without drawing unequally upon any portion of the seam and thus causing the shoe to become distorted and get out of shape, as would be the case if one .of the reflexed portions were made narrower than the other and the seam arranged close to the edge thereof. Furthermore, by forming the reflexed margins 5 and 6 in the manner described, a firm base support for the margins of the inner sole 3 is secured, and provision made to permit the stitches 7 to be passed through the margins of all the complemental parts of the shoe, thus firmly and substantially uniting said portions so as to make a shoe of neat and shapely appearance and which will withstand'the strains of service without getting out of shape.

A furtheradvantage of my construction resides in the fact that all the parts may be die cut to an exact form and size, thus enabling them to be stitches together after simply bringing the margins of the parts in proper allnement or registratiomand doof care or inexpertness, in making a shoe which is out of shape or has other defects.

My improved shoe ma therefore, be made easily and readily an at a low cost, since .time and labor will be saved in.the'steps of manufacture, with less loss resulting from the production of imperfect shoes. Inasmuch as the parts are die cut and, as a result of the structure defined, must accurately fit together without distortion, a flexible outeror inner sole may be employed without liability of the same wrink ing or creasing? in the operation of manufacture,

In practice, the inner sole may be either flexible or relatively stiff, according to the character of the shoe to be made, and if comparatively stiff it will serve as a stretcher to distend and hold the outer sole under a. certain tension so as to maintain the shape of the entire shoe, andmy construction is of great advantage in this connection as the strength of the seams will allow such a stretching action without liability of unequal stretching and distortion. Maximum durability and wearing qualities are also insured because of the strength afforded by the described construction and arrangement 0f the reflexed portions, the marginal edge of the inner sole 3, and the two rows of stitches 4 and 7.

Having thus fully described my invention, I claim:

1. A shoe having an outer sole and a vamp, both having reflexed margins, said reflexed margins having their edges in substantial alinement and being of substantially equal widths, an outer row of stitches passing through and uniting said reflexed margins substantially at an equal distance from the edges thereof, an inner sole having its marginal portion fitted between the vamp and the reflexed portion thereof, and an inner row of stitches passing through the vamp, both soles and both reflexed margins and securing all of said portions together.

2. A shoe having an outer sole and a vamp, both having reflexed margins, said reflexed margins having matching edges and being of equal width, and saidvamp also having a fold overlying its reflexed margin, an outer row of stitches passing through and uniting said reflexed margins an equal distance from the edges thereof, an inner sole having its marginal portion fitted between the sai reflexed portion of the vamp and said overlying fold, and a second row of stitches passing through the fold of the vamp, both soles and both reflexed portions on a line between the first named row of stitches and the edges of said reflexed ortions.

3. A turned s oe having a vamp and an outer sole, each provided -with a reflexed portion, said reflexed portions being united so as to project inwardly between the vamp and outer sole when the same are turned, and said vamp having a fold overlying its reflexed margin, and a filler or insole having its marginal portions secured to said re flexed portions and extending into the pocket formed between and fold of the vamp.

4. A shoe having a vamp and an outer sole, both provided with reflexed portions, said reflexed portions having substantially matching edges and being of substantially equal width, a row of stitches uniting said reflexed portions at substantially equal distances from their edges, an inner sole having its marginal portion fitted between the sole and its reflexed portion, and a second row of stitches uniting both soles, both reflexed portions and the vamp to ether.

5. A shoe having a vamp provlded -yvith a reflexed portion and a fold overlying the same, an outer sole having a reflexed .portion coextensive in width with the reflexed portion of the vamp, the edges of said reflexed portions being arranged substantially in alinement, a row of stitches uniting the reflexed portions at substantially equal distances from their edges and in proximity to their points of juncture with the vamp and outer sole, and a second row of stitches lying inside the first-named row of stitches and passing through the fold of the vamp, both soles and both reflexed portions, said reflexed portions extending inwardly beyond the reflexed portion the second-named row of stitches beyond the line of said fold.

6. The herein-described method of making a turned shoe, which consists in superposing a vamp and an outer sole while in wrong side out position with their marginal edges matching or alining with each other, uniting the vamp and outer sole while in such position by a row of stitches spaced inwardly at an equal distance from the edges of said margins, turning the united vamp and outer sole to right side out position so that the united margins thereof will extend a substantial distance inwardly between the same in the form of reflexed portions of equal widths, fitting an inner sole in position so that the marginal portion thereof will lie between the margin of the body of the vamp and its reflexed portion, turning down the margin of the body of the vamp so as to form a fold overlying the mar in of the inner sole, and then uniting said f0 d, both soles and both reflexed margins by a row of stitches lying inside the line of the first-named row of stitches.

In testimony whereof I aflix my signature.

ELLEN M. PATTON. 

